10 reasons why Graz is a lot better than it was the last time I was here #5 bikes

Everyone rides everywhere, and I think this little bike saved my sanity. I was just really careful of the trams. Trams terrify me. Also bike thieves. I was paranoid about that, so my bike slept in the apartment every night with me...up and down the tiny lift everyday. It was only by the end of my stay that I remembered Austrian apartments have cellars. Most likely with bike storage. 

Anyways, most days I would follow the map to the hospital but eventually I ended up just following all the other riders on their way to the university - talking side streets and bike paths and navigating the worlds most hectic roundabout on the way to their campus ever. The first day I got off and pushed the bike across, the next day I followed the person in front of me and hoped for the best. Eventually I rode, back straight, head high - without hesitation. Maybe with my eyes closed. But I made it.

And never underestimate how hiring a bike can make you appreciate how crap your bike at home really is - even if it is pretty, red and shiny. 

Also never underestimate how handsome men can look riding bikes down cobblestone roads wearing duffel coats. Or should that be reason #6 of why Graz didn't suck so much?

10 reasons why Graz is a lot better than it was the last time I was here # 4 Bars with good food

Graz has so many great places to drink with good food. Or is that Graz has so many good places to eat with great drinks? 

Either way, Blended for great wine, tasty snacks, buzzy vibe and dogs running under tables. In Lend, Mariahilferstraße 24.

B.eat for great burgers, beers and truffle fries!! Near the university at Harrachgasse 2.

Feinkost Mild for interesting homemade syrups mixed with wine, friendly staff, pork and horseradish to blow your mind. City centre, Stubenberggasse 7.

10 reasons why Graz is a lot better than it was the last time I was here #3 Art stuff

Graz has a pretty happening contemporary art scene. Small galleries, big contemporary spaces and museums (with controversial architecture to boot). Interesting and accessible work given the population is around 300 000. Go to Rotor in Lend, the contemporary art museum called KM (sort of near the centre) and the big new shiny art gallery by the river. It's a small place - you'll find them.

Saturday afternoon sounds

I'm listening to the soundtrack from the movie Somewhere. This is on it. Love Like a Sunset Part 1 by Phoenix.

10 reasons why Graz is a lot better than it was the last time I was here #2 Farmers Markets

There are two - the smaller one at Lendplatz is my favourite, it has everything you need or want and smiling faces. The bigger one is in a square at the Opera House stop on the tram - it has more variety and is busier but the people are less friendly.